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To view other older notices that may be interest to Jasper travellers please visit the JASPER NOTICE ARCHIVES. The archives include a report of the deaths on Mt Robson plus pictures of the avalanche that caught two climbers on Mt Athabasca in July. |
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WARNING! Rock Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. The information presented here is intended as an adjunct to, not a replacement for, sound judgment and experience. The accuracy of the information presented cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. In addition, accurate knowledge of the use of various safety devices and systems is requisite to understanding the information presented and in determining it's applicability to your situations. Always use a backup to your systems where a failure could result in death or injury. Nature offers few second chances for poor or inappropriate application of information and techniques. The Law of Gravity has no Court of Appeal. This must not be your only source of information on any given climbing route or subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors and Rescue Dynamics from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.
NOTICE ! The most recent guidebook for rock climbing in Jasper National Park called Jasper Rock, written by Dave Robinson, has been sold out around the country for well over three years now. Extensive searching has found no new sources of the books anywhere, so not much point in looking. Dave did an excellent job on the book and should receive your thanks, but they are long gone now. Jasper no longer has a guidebook worthy of the climbing available.The last book was supported by Gravity Gear, Jasper's local climbing shop and information hub. Next time you are in Jasper you should also visit Gravity Gear and contribute to the bolt fund. After all, many of the routes in the new book were helped along by contributions to the bolt fund.
By agreement with Dave Robinson, this became the official place to come for guidebook updates. In 2004/2005 it is also now going to be the place to track the progress on the new guidebook (more on that below). In addition, we have been printing photos from many of the routes to give you a taste of what they are like. Since Dave's Jasper Rock guidebook is no longer widely available, distribution of the Hidden Valley mini-guide and an updated Rock Gardens mini-guide will resume again for the short term. On this site you will find extensive update sections for each area as new developments occur. The updates include guidebook corrections and a few new routes that were put up more recently or where information was not available in time to include in Dave's guide. Check here often as the pace of activity is about to get hectic. You can also check the What's New page for announcements and for when a .pdf version of the updates may be made available.
Guidebook Progress Report for September 30, 2005
So much has happened in the last year that has not been reported. Here is an update:
New Guidebook Progress Report for August 31, 2004
So much has happened in the last month it is hard to enumerate, but here is a sampling:
New Guidebook Progress Report for July 11, 2004
In addition to the June 16 and July 6 update the following just took place in the last few days:
New Guidebook Progress Report for July 6, 2004
In addition to the June 16 update the following just took place in the last few days:
New Guidebook Progress Report for June 16, 2004
In addition to the June 11 update the following just took place in the last few days:
New Guidebook Progress Report for June 11, 2004
In addition to the June 8 update the following just took place in the last few days:
New Guidebook Progress Report for June 8, 2004:
New Guidebook Progress Report for May 15, 2004:
New Guidebook Progress Report for May 8, 2004:
Index to previous Guidebook updates and more
Welcome to the Jasper Rocks update site hosted by Rescue Dynamics. This is where you can come to have a look at the latest and greatest guidebook updates, beta, new route descriptions and general hot information for all that Rocks in Jasper. This site began as a single page and is now divided into subsections with several additional pages for specific areas. This will continue to mutate as the guidebook work progresses so people can track progress on when their beloved new book will appear:
To whet your appetite for other Jasper Rock, we have posted some old topos and descriptions for routes on Ashlar's Ridge and Morro Peak. Note that the route information contained here is more extensive than what was included in the new Jasper Rock guidebook and contains a route on Morro not included in the guidebook. Also note that the Cave and Chase / Rowlands routes in the new guidebook were incorrectly marked in the guidebook photo. The photo on page 102 of the guidebook shows route 1 in the photo as the Cave route. It is actually the Chase Rowlands route. Route 2 in the photo is actually more correctly called the Pfisterer route but the route description for it calls it the Cave route. Don't mix them up or you will become hopelessly lost. A topo of "Good Intentions, Bad Habits" mentioned on page 103 of the guide can be obtained from Gravity Gear. Here are some descriptions with photos:
Morro Bluffs is a convenient little crag situated close to Jasper. It's in a lovely spot overlooking the Athabasca river. Matt Reynolds was very busy updating this old practice area during the spring and early summer of 1999. He has bolted about 9 routes and / or variants on the North facing bluff visible from Morro slabs. The information on Morro Bluffs is courtesy of Matt Reynolds. Since it has only come into vogue recently, no mention of the area is in the Jasper Rocks guidebook.
For those not familiar with the area, Hidden Valley is a sport and traditional climbing venue in Jasper Park. It is situated about half way between the towns of Hinton and Jasper and is accessed by a half hour to one hour walk, depending upon the part of the area you want to climb in. The Hidden Valley section of this website has guidebook updates and an online version of the Hidden Valley Guidebook.
Reynold's Rap a.k.a. Ravens Call
(After several ascents of Reynolds Rap on Syncline ridge with different people the necessary bolts are now in and the general consensus is sustained 5.10a on the crux pitch. A very worthy route with great views and the best limestone you could ask for. The second pitch is quite elegant. - Matt Reynolds)
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The free mini -guidebook is still online for now. The Jasper Rock Gardens Guidebook 1968 - 1998, 30th anniversary edition is roughly an 83k file in Adobe's .pdf format. It contains some obscure route references, overly verbose background info on routes and a bit of the thirty years of history in the Gardens. It is a handy addendum to what appears in Dave's excellent book. (NOTE: It is NOT a replacement for Jasper Rock !) |
| WATCHTOWER NOTICE: The Watchtower Area is open. Please respect the following guidelines:
1. stay on the trail, Check at the Warden's office or Gravity Gear for updates. Please Respect the area as we don't want a permanent closure. |
July 16, 1999 update:
One Hot Minute - 12 2 bolts / chain anchor (new route)
FA June 25, 1999 S. Elliott, Fraser Wenseth (Scotland)
Right of "Band Aid Box" and left of "Limestone Cowboy". Stick clip first bolt. Start right, move left and up. Very bouldery climb. The short arete.
Correction Page 55:
Date: Fri, 09 July 1999 From: Dave Robinson
Hi Cyril; here is a correction for the website: page 55: routes 9 through 14 are marked incorrectly. The unmarked line right of 8 (the Chimney) should be marked 9 and the rest of the route numbers should move one left. For example, the route marked 13 is actually Pandora's Breast; this should be labelled as 14. The last line to the right should be numbered 15 and is actually Band Aid Box. The photo on page 52 is correct and should help to clarify this mistake.
Sorry! Dave
September 19, 1999 update:
High Boltage - 10b 11 bolts / rap hangers (new route)
FA summer 1999 Brent Czobitko
Between "Rapid Hand Movements" and "Broken Bolt".
October 20, 2000 update:
Humpty Dumpty - 12b (new route)
FA autumn 1999 Stephane Cameron
FFA September 20, 1999 Bruno Tassone
Starts on "Limestone Cowboy", breaks right at 3rd bolt. Spectacular moves. Rap anchors on top. *** stars.
Doctor Octopus - 13a (new route)
FA July 22, 2000 Trent Hoover
Right of "Shone". Starts directly below first bolt on "thin holds". Stick clip first bolt. Shares anchors with "Shone" and "Monster". (beautiful route - pure quality).
Where the Wild Things Are - 12c/d (Open Project)
Start on "Elliot's Route" (left of "Monster"). Climb to 4th bolt. Step right, clipping a new bolt. Continue right, clipping the 3rd bolt on "Monster". Continue right, traversing the Slot. Continue climbing up "Shone" (2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts). Step right again, finishing on Dr. Octopus. Use slings to control rope drag. enjoy!
Fairy Godmother's Slipper - 8 bolts 12c/d (new route)
FA August 6, 2000 Steve Stanko, Sheila Steinke
FFA October 8, 2000 Michael Cummings
Between "Tricks with Mirrors" and "Guide Killer". Probably in 12c/d range. Very Cool. 4 1/2 out of 5.
July 16, 1999 update:
Here is a correction for Rainy Day slabs submitted to Dave by Greg Cornell: The drawn line for Ribbed for your Pleasure is a little wrong on page 63. The line should go up left of that tree clump half way up and if you look close that tree which is huge in real life, just to the right of the eighth dotted marker. So in between these, the one tree and the clump. The route continues up through the 'R' or 'A' in RAINY DAY SLABS written on the pic. The ending to the top of pitch three is in that open brown hole of ground in the trees straight up from the'i' in the title. Please correct this whenever you do an update so the route is not so 'unfortunately hard to find'! Furthermore, all three pitches have FOUR bolts each not "one or two", yet it is still runout because the pitches are rope stretchers. Pitch one, one needs to climb up a few feet for the leader to reach the first set of anchor bolts. The others are fine. Must rap from the trees above or walk off. You can find a bit more info on this route in the 1998 Canadian Alpine Journal on page 120. Great route go find it!!!!! gc
July 16, 1999 update:
Atypical - 10b quicky anchors (new route)
FA May 28, 1999 Brent Czobitko
Far right side / Last bolted route. Fun moves over 2 roof systems.
Moonlighting - 12b 4 bolts (new route)
FA May 29, 1999 Steve Stanko
First route at Lost Boys. 2 small awkward roofs; Thin around face and big roof.
Nerdling - 11a 2 bolts to single lower off (new route)
FA June 3, 1999 Sheila Steinke, S. Elliott
Second route at Lost Boys.
September 19, 1999 update:
Ethnic Cleansing - 9/10 (new route)
FA July 5, 1999 Bruno Tassone
Obvious crack right of "Atypical" (Brent's new route) and left of "Wanna Be a Star". Natural Gear - takes pro well, crux at roof similar to "Wanna Be a Star". Traverse slightly right to share anchors of same (5.9, maybe 5.10... who cares?)
Social Foreplay - 5.8 6 bolts (new route)
FA August 6, 1999
Next right to "Shiva" (rap anchors)
Thieving Bastards - 10d 7 bolts / rap hangers (new route)
FA June 14, 1999 Brent Czobitko
Next bolted line to right of "Super Brant Man".
From: Brent Czobitko Subject: new Lost Boys Route Date: Fri, 21 Apr 2000
I was enjoying your great site (Jasper Rocks) and discovered an oversight. Another new route was strung up at the Lost Boys crag during the summer of 1999. It is the next bolted route to the right of Super Brant Man. Although there is no consensus on the route, it goes 10+, has 5 or 6 bolts, and rap hangers. The route is appropriately called Thieving Bastards, as a malicious act of treachery occurred shortly after completion of the route: two 'biners were unceremoniously removed from the rappel station. (at the time of the theft, rap hangers were in short supply requiring 'biners to be placed in bolt hangers) FA: Brent Czobitko, Summer 1999. bC
October 20, 2000 update:
Geriatric Ward - 9 bolts, 11+ (new route)
FA September 14, 2000 Bruno Tassone, Steve Stanko
Just right of "Italian Meatballs".
This One's For You Joe - gear, 5.8 (unreported route)
FA August 1998 Fluff and Dale
To the left of "Grab a Seat".
Fireline - 7 bolts, 11- (new route)
FA July 18, 2000 Sean Elliot, Steve Stanko, Bruno Tassone
Just left of "Dog Day Afternoon".
July 16, 1999 update:
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Topo modified after Robinson in Jasper Rock.
7 Bingo - 9, 4 bolts (new route)
FA May 30, 1999 Sheila Steinke
Far right side / Last bolted route. Fun moves over 2 roof systems.
8 Phantom Power - 11+, 4 bolts (new route)
FA Fall 1998 S. Elliott
First route at Lost Boys. 2 small awkward roofs; Thin around face and big roof.
9 Frankenjura - 12+, 6 bolts (new route)
FA Summer 1998 Will Gadd
Right finish : project 13-
10 Expecting - 10d, 4 bolts, chains (new route)
FA June 1, 1999 S. Elliot
11 Project
On Highway 16 west of Jasper at a place called Rockingham Creek, some new route exploration and creation has been done. What little is known is reproduced here:
Raven Lady - 6 bolts (rap anchors), 11a (new route)
FA July 3, 1999 Heather Bowlen, Steve Stanko
Face The Music - 7 bolts (rap anchors), 11b (new route)
FA May 3, 2000 Paul Valiulis, Steve Stanko
Smear Tactics - 2 pitches, 11c (new route)
FA May 3, 2000 Paul Valiulis, Jeff Andrews, Steve Stanko
First pitch: 4 bolts to rap anchors (10c). Second pitch: 10 bolts to rap anchors (11c).
Bedson ridge is an area that has increasingly gained popularity, and no doubt will continue to do so. It is a traditional climbing venue across the Athabasca River from Pocahontas Warden Station. This arid, almost desert like area (by Jasper standards anyway) has within it some of the best quality limestone climbing around! Unfortunately access can be quite cumbersome and complex. Jasper's park wardens have been climbing this area for many years leaving behind on the cliff several well received red painted pins and the odd bolt here and there. Generally the climbing has remained a bit runout with several areas that are unprotectable without pitons and a bolt kit (highly recommended). Several long multi-pitch routes exist on two major cliffs dubbed B-major and B-minor. The current established routes generally range from 5.5 to 5.10 and between 4 and 11 pitches long. Fixed gear exists, but to date it remains sparse with a few exceptions on the more popular routes. Be prepared to construct your own anchors! The major stumbling block to this area becoming a hot venue is difficult (time consuming) access. The topos and route descriptions on this page are courtesy of Matt Reynolds. We hope to bring you more informations and a few photos as time goes on.
The David Thompson Ice mini-Guidebook is now online in html format on the Articles page. Also coming soon is the David Thompson Ice mini-Guidebook in .pdf format.
This page will also include links to mountaineering and ice information that may be of interest to climbers as well. Some examples include:
Come back soon !!
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Further Information, Comments, Suggestions?Rescue Dynamics
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