Hidden Valley News

WARNING! Rock Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. The information presented here is intended as an adjunct to, not a replacement for, sound judgment and experience. The accuracy of the information presented cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. In addition, accurate knowledge of the use of various safety devices and systems is requisite to understanding the information presented and in determining it's applicability to your situations. Always use a backup to your systems where a failure could result in death or injury. Nature offers few second chances for poor or inappropriate application of information and techniques. The Law of Gravity has no Court of Appeal. This must not be your only source of information on any given climbing route or subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors and Rescue Dynamics from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.

Before you head out, check the Current Conditions Page for beta on what has been happening. Then check the weather on our constantly improving super weather page: Weather Forecasts for Canada - All on One Page.

July 16, 1999 update:

The HIDDEN VALLEY 1939 - 1999, 60 year retrospective and climbers mini-guidebook was finished on September 17, 1998 and was distributed in Jasper primarily through Gravity Gear. For those not familiar with the area, Hidden Valley is a sport and traditional climbing venue in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. The mini guidebook was a stop-gap measure until Jasper Rock came out and contained references to nearly 100 named routes, photos, overly verbose background information and a bit of the sixty years of climbing history in Hidden Valley. Over three quarters of the information in the mini-guide made it's way into the new guidebook. (Due to all the photos, it was a whopping huge document and was not offered as a free download.) Since the majority of the information is in the new guide, distribution of the mini-guide has now ceased. (see October 11 update for more about the mini-guide.)

Here are some corrections to the Hidden Valley section of the Jasper Rock guidebook:

• page 75 - the line shown for "Eurosport" should be about five feet (2m) right of where it is shown in the photo for almost the entire length of the route. The line shown for "Ice Milk" trends more left in the upper part of the route than shown in the photo.
• page 79 - since Spiderman has only seen one redpoint (Steve Stanko - autumn 1998) it is probably harder than the 11d grade it received in the guide and 12 something is likely more real.
• page 79 - just around the corner to the right of "Last Shag in Hong Kong" are two new bolted lines put up in autumn 1998 by Dave Devin and Cyril Shokoples. They go at 5.6 and 5.10 respectively and will be included in a future update.
• page 82 - The line shown for route 2 actually starts on "Bullethead Buttress" and the left part of the line is in "Bullethead Grooves". Right about where the number "2" appears in the diagram is where you step right a few feet to continue up past two more pitons and end at the belay ledge.
• page 83 - "Goats in the Machine" now has a new set of belay / rappel bolts right above where the routes are shown splitting in the photo on page 82. They were just added in spring 1999. To rappel from these bolts requires a 60 to 70m rope. A 60m rope leaves you just above the deck and a 50m rope leaves you part way up the route!!
• page 87 - route 4 as marked is actually "The Dihedral". "Swordfish Trombone" is between the "Dihedral" and "Tick Paralysis".
• page 87 - route 6 is marked as "Rifling" but is shown closer to the line that is actually "Redline". Just right of Redline is another older route (gear) called "Pink Mist". It begins in a corner and goes at about 5.7r.
  

September 18 Update: A new short practice aid climb went up On September 12 just along the old road past Traffic Jam crag along the blasted road cuts. It is more than vertical (overhangs perhaps 10 - 15 degrees) for it's entire length. The route is called Rick's Revenge and is A2, 10m. It starts with a couple of rivets. Bring small wires to tie them off, then 2 bolts, then a series of pin placements to a two bolt rap anchor. Bring a couple of knifeblades, a couple of short Lost Arrows and a couple of small angles. R. Checkland and C. Shokoples.

October 10, 1999 Update:

Here are some more additions and corrections to the Jasper Rock guidebook:

• Easy Pickin's 5.6 5 bolts 25m
  Retro-bolted Dave Devin, Cyril Shokoples, September 13, 1998
  Just around the corner (south) from Last Shag in Hong Kong. Start at a group of toppled trees and head up on easy featured slab just left of a broken corner. Grade tentative. (left line in photo)
• Blown Away 5.10a 5 bolts 25m
  Retro-bolted Dave Devin, Cyril Shokoples, September 13, 1998
  Start at a small tree and climb up on steepening slab to the first bolt just right of a broken corner. Make one or two thin moves past the second bolt before gaining easier ground above on excellent water worn rock. Grade tentative. (right line in photo)
• page 88 - in Autumn 1998, Cyril's Slab Emporium received a massive retrofitting of bolts by Dave Devin and Cyril Shokoples. Here is the new beta and route photo.
• Hail the Goat 5.9r bolts & gear 50m Dave Robinson, Andrew McLeod summer 1990
  Begin up a series of cracks and blocks 5m to the left of the start of Big Corner. 10m up are some loose ledges. From here climb past a fixed pin into the upper corner and past two bolts to the obvious crack. Layback/stem the corner/crack (crux, good pro) to a ledge and a bolt. Climb up to the right through some blocks to a bolt where the angle lessens. Continue straight up to the anchor (2 ropes required for rappel).
• Unnamed 5.9/5.10 gear 50m Harvey Struss, Ken Wallator, 1998
  Another gear line near Big Corner with no details. More info when it becomes available.
• Big Corner 5.7r gear 50m
  Climb up ledges to a fixed pin and the corner proper. Continue up the corner to a three pin stance (optional belay station). Above, the corner steepens (crux) with good pro available in either the corner or cracks to the left. Continue up to the slab above, and climb past a bolt to the rap anchor. Two ropes are recommended to descend. (descriptions for Big Corner and Hail the Goat courtesy of Andrew McLeod who upgraded Big Corner and added the rappel station in 1998.)
• Pink Mist 5.6 / 5.7r gear 50m Paul Trepanier, Cyril Shokoples, May 1981
  A one pitch route 50m right of Redline starting in a nice corner then going onto a beautiful runout slab. No fixed gear is in place. Walk off to the right or climb further (loose rock). Take pitons.

October 11, 1999 Update:

The HIDDEN VALLEY 1939 - 1999, 60 year retrospective and climbers mini-guidebook is now online complete with photos and route descriptions. It is not a substitute for the Jasper Rocks guidebook, but has some interesting additional information and marked route photos. Buy the Jasper Rocks Guidebook and use this as a supplement.

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last updated: Saturday, April 26, 2014