WARNING! Rock Climbing is by its very nature, a potentially hazardous activity. The information presented here is intended as an adjunct to, not a replacement for, sound judgment and experience. The accuracy of the information presented cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. In addition, accurate knowledge of the use of various safety devices and systems is requisite to understanding the information presented and in determining it's applicability to your situations. Always use a backup to your systems where a failure could result in death or injury. Nature offers few second chances for poor or inappropriate application of information and techniques. The Law of Gravity has no Court of Appeal. This must not be your only source of information on any given climbing route or subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors and Rescue Dynamics from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.

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Ashlar's Ridge is one of the most attractive untapped walls in Jasper Park and this is a classic example of a fine line with good character on that wall. There are sections of great rock and great climbing, but also a few sections of typical bad rock that most veterans of Rockies climbing would find acceptable. The approach typically takes 1 1/2 hours. Average times on the climb vary from 4 to 6 hours, although it has been done in 3. The descent is generally about 1 1/2 hours. The route is occasionally runout, but some pitches take great gear. Take a complete set of wired nuts and cams (including small cams) and 6 to 10 runners. A couple of Screamers are a good idea for a few of the fixed pitons. If you think you may get lost, pitons are most helpful for belays. Later in the season, there is no water once you leave the Fiddle River.

Approach: Begin by parking at a small paved parking lot just south of and beyond the hairpin turn from the Ashlar’s viewpoint. Hike north from the parking lot a short distance looking for a trail which heads down to the river at a post marked with a small arrow. Wade across the river. Please note that the cable car across the Fiddle River which provided years of access to climbs on Ashlar's Ridge has been removed. It disappeared in early June or late May of 1998. Parks Canada wardens are uncertain at this time who is responsible for the removal, but suffice it to say that the cable, car and all associated hardware are gone. It is now necessary to wade the river. This should be allowed for in your planning.

1. Start 5m right of the grassy cone. Climb up easy 5^th class for 5 — 10m then traverse easily left a ledge for 15m to a difficult to find old rusty piton (30m).
2. From the piton continue to traverse left on an easy ledge to a group of low trees above which is a single piton. (40m) (An alternate direct start begins from the piton heads directly up on a blank slab and is runout 5.6 / 5.7 for 60m, followed by a traverse left back to the regular route.)
3.Follow up on the edge of a rib / ramp on reasonable rock. Avoid going in the gully next to the rib unless you like climbing in loose rock. Pass a two piton rappel anchor in the gully and continue a bit further to a single piton on the rib. (5.4, 45m)
4. Continue following rib feature for a full 50m to belay from trees. (5.5, 50+m)
5. Climb easily up a loose rotten ramp to two pitons at the base of a small chimney / groove. (50m)
6. Go up chimney, past junipers, then traverse right past a tree and downclimb to a two piton belay. (5.5, 30m)
7. Climb up the steep wall of rotten looking rock. (Don’t traverse left to the solid grey wall. It is runout and much harder.) The rock is juggy and more solid than it appears, although the usual Rockies care should be used. The climbing gets easier after 30m. Belay from 3 pitons. (5.6, 45m)
8. Climb easily up a groove a short distance to where a traverse right on a narrowing ledge will take you past 2 Lost Arrow pitons (screamers recommended) to the base of the major chimney. The last 5m is thin, exposed and the crux of the route. (5.7, 40m)
9. Head up the chimney bridging on excellent rock to a large tree. (5.7, 30m)
10. Move out of the chimney system by climbing past a second tree, up solid rock, on the right edge of the chimney. Trend up and slightly right until an indistinct break to the left appears. Follow this break up and left to belay from 2 pitons. (5.6, 45m)
11. Follow a ramp of solid rock trending right then climb up ribs (5.6, 5.7) fairly directly to the top. If you pass a reddish orange fixed piton, you are probably on the best line to the top which includes a second crux section passing the piton. Belay from two pitons on a large ledge just below the top. (5.7, 50m) (Considerable variation has occurred on the final pitches. By climbing left and up, a runout 5.8 pitch on dubious rock has been done. Other variants to the right have also been done.)

Descent is by hiking down toward the col to the south and eventually work back to the front of the face and return to the river crossing.

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