Jasper Rocks - Bedson Ridge

WARNING! Rock Climbing, Mountaineering and Skiing are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. The information presented here is intended as an adjunct to, not a replacement for, sound judgment and experience. The accuracy of the information presented cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. In addition, accurate knowledge of the use of various safety devices and systems is requisite to understanding the information presented and in determining it's applicability to your situations. Always use a backup to your systems where a failure could result in death or injury. Nature offers few second chances for poor or inappropriate application of information and techniques. The Law of Gravity has no Court of Appeal. This must not be your only source of information on any given climbing route or subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors and Rescue Dynamics from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.

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Bedson Ridge

October 7, 1999 Update:

Bedson ridge is an area that has increasingly gained popularity, and no doubt will continue to do so. It is a traditional climbing venue across the Athabasca River from Pocohontas Warden Station. This arid, almost desert like area (by Jasper standards anyway) has within it some of the best quality limestone climbing around! Unfortunately access can be quite cumbersome and complex. Jasper's park wardens have been climbing this area for many years leaving behind on the cliff several well received red painted pins and the odd bolt here and there. Generally the climbing has remained a bit runout with several areas that are unprotectable without pitons and a bolt kit (highly recommended). Several long multi-pitch routes exist on two major cliffs dubbed B-major and B-minor. The current established routes generally range from 5.5 to 5.10 and between 4 and 11 pitches long. Fixed gear exists, but to date it remains sparse with a few exceptions on the more popular routes. Be prepared to construct your own anchors! The topos and route descriptions on this page are courtesy of Matt Reynolds. We hope to bring you more informations and a few photos as time goes on.

Access

Access Alternative 1 - If you have a boat and you can find access to the river close to Bedson's ridge, a crossing can save up to and hour from Access Alternative 2. There are passages that lead you to the railway tracks, however changing water levels in the river don't always make it easy. Navigating through the maze of river channels can be trickier than one may think. It takes approximately 1/2 hour to an hour to paddle across the river and another hour to reach the base of the cliff once at the railway tracks. It's a lot of added logistics for 1hr.

Access Alternative 2 - Drive to within a few minutes west of Hinton and take the Hwy 40 turnoff heading north. Cross the Athabasca river and take the turnoff to Brule. Drive straight through Brule. The main road branches right but you'll want to continue straight on the dirt access road to Ogre canyon. The Ogre Canyon Road can become quite rough and at times, especially after a rain, it can be impassable except with a 4 wheel drive vehicle. The road is partially on private property, but access has yet to become an issue. Be sure to read the signs on the road carefully and close the gates behind you! In 30 minutes from Brule you are at the end of the road. From the parking area an ATV track leads across the creek. and eventually to the railroad tracks. An exciting tunnel here blocks your way. It's about 300m long, it's pitch dark and trains frequently pass through at random intervals!! Fortunately a steep trail on the right side follows the power lines and puts you right back on the tracks after the tunnel. It takes an extra 10 min. but is highly recommended. Travel in the tunnel is not just dangerous, it's also illegal and could lead to future access problems and related issues we don't want. Follow the tracks until below the first cliff; B-minor. Cross a small creek. and follow a sidehill to the open slopes leading up to B-minor climbs. For access to B-major follow the tracks for another 5 min. Traverse a small knoll surrounded by a shallow lake and swamp to reach the slopes below B-major climbs. From Jasper access takes approx. 2 hrs. driving and 1 hr walking from the Ogre canyon parking lot.

B-MINOR: PRIME CUT

F.A. G. Israelson and T. Auger, 1986

Approach- From the railroad tracks cross the sidehill to the open slopes below B-minor. Hike and scramble to the base of the corner separating the large steep sidewall and the slabs. You may want to pitch out the final 20m or so here the climbing is up to 5.4.

Pitch 1: 25m 5.7: Climb the corner up featured slabs to a large roof passing 1 piton. Traverse under the roof and up to a 2 piton belay at the foot of a corner which leads up through the steep wall above.

Pitch 2: 25m 5.8: Struggle up this awkward offwidth corner to a ledge. Climb down and traverse 3m (loose rock here) to a bolt/pitons belay at the foot of the large corner threading the steep wall.

Pitch 3: 20m 5.8: Move up on steep rock to a bolt and gear belay.

Pitch 4: 30m 5.9: Continue up steep rock on big holds passing 2 pitons near the top of the pitch. Gain the low angle slabs belaying at a bolt/gear belay.

Pitch 5: 40m 5.7: Climb up featured slabs passing a couple of pins and the occasional gear placement to a bolt/gear belay. Runout.

Pitch 6: 35m 5.8: Climb up and right following a series of crack seams past some pitons to a bolt/gear belay. Runout. Avoid going to the obvious corner system left.

Pitch 7: 20m 5.6: Follow the obvious seam crack past a hidden pin up and left to the top and a piton belay.

DESCENT:

Traverse until steep scree can be descended to the slabby ridge. Follow the ridge down, eventually traversing back on to the slopes at the base of the cliffs.

B-MAJOR: ILLUSIONS OF GREATNESS

F.A. G. Israelson and P. Sheehan

Approach- From the railroad tracks traverse the knoll surrounded by swamp to the open slopes below the cliff. Hike straight up the open slopes to the base of the climb. The route follows slabs and then a corner system left of Doctors Dive. There is a very large roof beside the route half way up.

Pitch 1: 50m 5.5: Wander up low angled terrain to an old sling around a horn.

Pitch 2: 35m 5.8: Move right on easy terrain, then crank over the short steep crux. Move up and step left to belay on a nice ledge with two pitons.

Pitch 3: 30m 5.7: Follow the corner straight up belaying left of the big roof.

Pitch 4: 30m 5.8: Move up and left past a bolt, then step back right into the corner. Follow the corner to a semi-hanging belay below a small roof. A single piton at the belay.

Pitch 5: 40m 5.6: Climb left on ramp systems (fairly runout climbing.) Several options exist here and there are no established belay stances. Belay generally below two corner systems heading straight up.

Pitch 6: 35m 5.6: Climb up either of the right facing corner systems to easier ground above. Watch for loose frost shattered rock on the upper ledges.

Pitch 7: 15m 5.3: A short traverse on loose rock brings you closer to the final pitch on the right. Several large ledges to choose from.

Pitch 8: 40m 5.7: Move right on rotten rock that leads to much better quality rock. Climb up various crack systems to 4th class terrain.

DESCENT:

Traverse until you gain the main ridgeline. Follow the steep trees and wavy slabs to the bottom.

B-MAJOR: NO ILLUSION

F.A. M. Reynolds and L. Paulson 1997

Pitch 1: 50m 5.5: Wander up low angled terrain to an old sling around a horn.

Pitch 2: 35m 5.8: Move right on easy terrain, then crank over the short steep crux. Move up and step left to belay on a nice ledge with two pitons.

Pitch 3: 30m 5.7: Follow the corner straight up belaying left of the big roof.

Pitch 4: 30m 5.8: Move up and left past a bolt, then step back right into the corner. Follow the corner to a semi-hanging belay below a small roof. A single piton at the belay.

Pitch 5: 40m 5.10a: Head up the corner over the first roof and continue up easier ground to the second bigger roof. (This is a good spot for a bolt) Undercling and layback past the second roof belaying on a small ledge (semi hanging stance with 1 fixed pin)

Pitch 6: 35m 5.9: Continue up the corner with beautiful stemming and liebacking on solid rock past ledges to the base of the last steep section. Belay in an alcove (watch for rotten rock here).

Pitch 7: 40m 5.7: Move right on rotten rock that leads to much better quality rock. Climb up various crack systems to 4th class terrain.

DESCENT:

Traverse until you gain the main ridgeline. Follow the steep trees and wavy slabs to the bottom.

B-MAJOR: DOCTORS DIVE

F.A. G. Israelson and A. McDonald 1987

Approach- From the railroad tracks traverse the small knoll surrounded by swamp and head straight up the open slopes to the middle of B-Major. Dr Dive follows a large uninterrupted corner that splits the middle of the face.

Pitch 1: 30m 5.7: Climb up an awkward offwidth and low angled slabs to a grassy ledge. Continue up a wide crack for another 5m. Look left for a bolt and then step down and left to a bolt/piton belay below a roof.

Pitch 2: 30m 5.8: Head back right to the bolt and up towards the obvious corner. Make steep moves past two bolts gaining low angled slabs to a bolt/piton belay.

Pitch 3: 35m 5.5: Continue up the corner past a piton to a big ledge. (tree) Set up a belay here.

Pitch 4: 35m 5.7: Climb up and left to a piton, then back right passing a second piton and up to belay on a sloping ledge.

Pitch 5: 25m 5.6: Start in the left-hand crack. Climb up and step right into the right-hand crack and up to a nice ledge. Bolt/piton belay on the left side of the ledge.

Pitch 6: 40m 5.7: Traverse left for 7m passing a piton. Then climb up passing another piton to a ledge near the top of the cliff.

DESCENT:

Follow the ridge down through trees and steep slab waves to the base of the cliff.

B-MAJOR: HOB KNOBBING

F.A. G. Israelson and Pat Sheehan

Approach- From the railroad tracks traverse the small knoll surrounded by swamp and head left up the open slopes to the far left side of the cliff. Start below the 3 arching corner systems that gain the huge ledge 1/3 of the way up the route. Alternately skip the first 4 pitches and scramble up the left leaning corner to gain the big ledge.

Pitch 1: 40m 5.5: Scramble up 15m gaining the corner. Follow the obvious corner and belay on the big ledge.

Pitch 2: 40m 5.7: Follow the second corner up to the next big ledge. It's a flaring crack and the protection's not great.

Pitch 3: 50m 5.8: The third right facing corner requires some liebacking. The crux is half way up and is a bit runout.

Pitch 4: 25m 5.2: Continue up on easy 5th class terrain to the monster ledge with trees.

Pitch 5: Walk to the right edge of the treed ledge below some right leaning grooves.

Pitch 6: 45m 5.6: Move up the right leaning grooves past a 3 piton anchor 15m up. Continue up crack systems to the belay on the right in a corner.

Pitch 7: 30m 5.5: Follow the corner until it's possible to break right gaining the major left leaning system 2/3rds of the way up the cliff.

Pitch 8: 45m 5.4: Cruise up this left leaning corner system to belay on a small ledge just below a steep bulge in the system.

Pitch 9: 35m 5.9: Layback up the short steep crux and continue on a rare and beautiful crack eventually trending left. Belay on a grassy ledge in the main right facing corner. 2 piton belay.

Pitch 10: 20m 5.6: Move left at first and then back right on this wandering pitch. A hand traverse leads far to the right and then up onto a small ledge. A bit runout. Don't forget to protect the second. Large potential for nasty pendulum swings on this pitch.

Pitch 11: 25m 5.7: Step way right onto lower angled terrain avoiding the steep corner straight above. Thin cracks lead to a belay on a big ledge. Surprisingly protectable, although a bit runout still.

Pitch 12: 50m 5.5: Climb up the obvious corner to treed ledges above.

DESCENT:

Traverse the top of the cliff and follow the ridge down through trees and steep slab waves to the base of the cliff.

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