V 5.8 A3
Roche Miette - Task Master
A new route put up by Ken Wallator & Harvey Struss
We did this climb during the month of August 1995 and for anyone who was around here you may understand why it took a total of six days to finish. The first day started out with pouring rain and high winds followed by two inches of snow. The funny thing about it all was that we just didn't care what it did. We were going up and we were going to have a great time and that's just what we did.
The line starts on the far right hand side of the N face in the right facing corner leading to a series of roofs. After four pitches you gain the prow of the N and W face. You take the obvious line from here with three pitches of easier free climbing (5.7) and aid (A1) until you hit a large bivi ledge. Here you now find two great pitches of climbing. The first is a thin crack with hard nailing and a dicey hook move onto a RURP (A3) to a bolt belay on the left. The next pitch is also a beauty with a four meter traverse to the right into an A1 corner to a big ledge with some good climbing (5.8). The last pitch is the only real loose one on the climb.
This was one hell of a lot of work because of the weather. We rappelled down every night but most of the belays are fixed, the odd piece of pro left so it should go in two good days. Its a great line and one I recommend. Have fun. If you need a topo call me. (Harvey Struss)
Rescue Dynamics Copyright © 1997 Cyril Shokoples
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Cyril Shokoples
Edmonton, AB, Canada T6L 1K5
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