Main South Wall - Multi-Pitch Routes

After continuing past the First Wall, you will come to the beginning of the Main South Wall area (called the Second Wall in Robinson's 1994 guide.) Going uphill and left will get you to the Fossil Bed, Schoolhouse Rock and eventually Rec Beach if you go far enough. Continuing up the Valley around and right is the mass of the Main South Wall in the valley. Most of the multi-pitch routes and a few sport routes are here. For the most part the multi-pitch routes follow along limestone bedding planes or strata and are not overly steep with a few notable exceptions. The climbing is often on slabs or in corners.

Many of the routes here have fixed gear and bolted belay stations but only the short sport climbs and Bullethead Buttress have rappel stations. Be sure that you have appropriate gear for those routes where gear or mixed climbing is mentioned. To descend you can either walk off to the left or right depending upon where you are on the wall. Generally, routes West of Alaska Bob are easiest to descend to the West (left), while those farther East (right) are best descended by walking up the ridge and eventually descending into the vegetated gully on the right. The Bullethead Buttress route is set up with rappel stations for a 50m rope. You can just barely rappel the lower two pitches of Goats in the Machine with a 60m rope.

New Salt 5.4 / 5.5 mixed 40m variant

Dave Devin, Cyril Shokoples, April 1998
This is a one pitch alternate start to Old Salt. It is shorter, but on steeper solid rock. Before the Old Salt rib, walk 10m uphill and left along the trail until an easy break in the wall above allows access. Scramble uphill 15m on 3rd and 4th class terrain to a spacious ledge above an area of yellow rock to a two bolt belay. (There are several alternate ways of gaining the belay ledge directly or from the right as well.) From the bolts trend up and left on excellent juggy, prickly rock past 2 fixed pins and 2 bolts to pull onto mellow terrain above and a single bolt. Clip this bolt as a directional and traverse 8m across and slightly down to the two bolt belay station at the base of a similar wall of prickly rock. This is the start of the third pitch of Old Salt, which is then followed to the top.

Ribs And Grooves

Between Old Salt and Bullethead Buttress is an expanse of alternating rib and gully features. Rest assured that every inch of this terrain has been climbing beginning in the 1940s with the establishment of the old ACC Pocohontas Hut. You can still encounter fixed pitons in obscure locations, although all of the very old relics have now disappeared as souvenirs. As a general rule it is best to bring pitons and gear if exploring here. The gullies tend to be full of loose rock and traversing here is an invitation for rockfall. Some of the ribs can afford pleasant climbing with Skipper’s Rib being an excellent example. The rock in the upper 50 meters is generally better and corresponds with the best pitches on Old Salt, Cadet and Skipper’s Rib.

Photo Legend:

1. New Salt
2. Old Salt
3. Cadet
4. Skipper's Rib

Old Salt up to 5.5 mixed 105m

J. Salt and An Other, 1957
This is one of the few old routes for which an early ascent can apparently be confirmed. The first belay used to sport a fixed piton from the 1957 ascent, but it was replaced by bolts circa 1980. This route has many alternate starts and variations throughout it’s length. The route described is the one that was frequented by Blue Lake schools in the 80s and is used commonly by local guides. It is generally fixed, but supplemental gear is handy in case you get lost, which is very easy. It is best not to run the pitches out farther than noted, especially in the lower half, as rockfall can occur due to the nature of the route. The route begins at the first and lowest point of the rock rib that intersects the trail as you approach from first wall. Alternatively, go just around the corner and begin by climbing one of the closest grooves. Climb up easily looking for a 2 bolt belay on the left part of the ridge (5.4, 25m). For the second pitch, scramble up easily on 3rd and 4th class terrain past one fixed piton to a two bolt belay at the base of a steep wall (25m). Climb the steeper, prickly wall past two bolts to a bolt and piton anchor (10m, 5.5). Ramble up staying left throughout and try to encounter the remaining two fixed pitons on the route to belay at a single tree at the top of the route. On windy days, belay at each treed ledge in the upper section to aid communication.

 Cadet up to 5.5 gear 105m

Philip McKeage, Morgan Neff, Cyril Shokoples, c early 1980s (retrofit in 1999)
Start in the first gully left of Skipper's Rib and scramble up easily until it is possible to gain the rib on your left. Follow this rib easily past a short step with a bolt and old fixed piton to a good ledge with a two bolt belay. (45m, 5.3) Climb the short steep wall past a bolt and hidden fixed piton to a large ledge. Belay from trees, gear or the Old Salt bolts. (10m, 5.5) Walk right 5 meters to a rib of excellent rock which is followed up to the Skipper's Rib belay bolts. (4 bolts 1 piton, 40m, 5.5) As an alternative, ramble more easily to the top on one of many lines left of Skipper's Rib. There is plenty of room to explore.

Skipper’s Rib 5.6 mixed 90m

Vern Mantey, Dave Skrastins, Cyril Shokoples, c 1975
A fun route with a great second pitch. Begin at a large tree growing about 3m up a rib. Belay from the tree and climb up past three or four fixed pins, staying on the rib throughout. Belay from two bolts just past a medium sized tree at 45m (5.5). From here climb easily up to the base of a steep compact wall with a bolt. Climb up then left past a fixed piton and a second bolt to a ledge. Another steep wall with a bolt presents itself. Climb over the steep wall along a detached flake with razor sharp edges onto easier ground. A further fixed piton and bolt on a shorter steep wall are the final difficulties before a two bolt belay beside a small tree (5.6, 45m). There has been considerable variation in the second pitch, but the best line is the one which has been fixed. Due to the length of the pitches and nature of the terrain, communication can be difficult on this route on windy days.

Bullethead Grooves 5.7 gear 75m

Tom Saunders, C. Shokoples, May 1981
Just left of Bullethead Buttress is a deep groove with reasonable rock on the sides and poor rock between. The route goes straight up this groove and eventually passes a section of loose rock in the middle with higher rockfall potential than many of the fixed routes. The upper section does have several sections of good rock and numerous variants have been done here. No fixed gear is in place, so take pitons and a regular rack of small to medium gear.

Photo Legend:

1. Top of Skipper's Rib
2. Bullethead Grooves and variants
3. Bullethead Buttress
4. Goats in the Machine
5. Spiral Staircase

Bullethead Buttress 5.6 mixed 75m

Robb LaBranche, Cyril Shokoples, May 1981
Another fun climb on increasingly good rock. The climbing gets easier the higher you go. Start about 8m right of the large tree (Skipper’s Rib) where the first two fixed pitons should be visible directly above you. Climb up moderately steep terrain past the first 3 fixed pitons to where you can step right and continue up past an additional two pitons to a two bolt belay (5.6-, 25m). From the belay climb up staying primarily on the leftmost margin of the slab on obvious weaknesses. Pass five fixed pitons to a two bolt belay on the left edge of a spacious ledge (5.4, 27m). The final pitch has no fixed gear in place. It goes up easy fifth class terrain with potential for gear placements. Belay from two rappel bolts at 25m or a tree at 40m. The route is set up for rappels on a 50m or longer rope.

Several variants exist on sections of Bullethead Buttress. Just right of the fixed pitons on the first pitch, a shallow inside corner has been climbed at slightly higher standard on gear to join the regular route about 15m up. Also, the route has been started by climbing past the first two bolts on Goats in the Machine then making a difficult traverse left to regain the upper half of the regular first pitch (gear). On the second pitch you can also climb one of several variants right of the regular line, the most obvious of which is an easy gully feature to a slab higher up. The last pitch has seen endless variation (gear).

Goats in the Machine 5.8 mixed 80m

Dave Robinson, Cyril Shokoples, April 29, 1998
An excellent recent addition to the multi-pitch array in the valley. The second pitch had been climbed in the 80s by Cyril Shokoples and Rod McMullen, but is now enhanced by 3 bolts. Climb into the obvious dihedral right of the Bulletheads. Stem up past two bolts then branch right on steeper terrain. At the fourth bolt move left and pull directly over the roof on surprisingly good holds. Two more bolts on somewhat easier terrain leads to a two bolt belay (5.8, 35m, 6 clips, gear optional). To rappel from here requires a 60m rope or longer. The second pitch begins at a bolt in the lower section of an excellent solid undulating slab. Climb up past this bolt onto an easier section (small to medium gear optional) then past two more bolts to a two bolt belay (25m). Climb easily to the Bullethead rappel anchors (25m) or the tree (40m). No fixed gear is in place on the last pitch. Alternatively, rappel this pitch then traverse to the top of the first pitch of Bullethead Buttress and rappel down.

Spiral Staircase 5.5 gear 95m

Vern Mantey, Dave Skrastins, Cyril Shokoples, c 1975
Begin by scrambling up an easy ramp on the left side of the 3D Wall sport routes. A single piton is near the top of this ramp. From a spacious ledge climb fairly directly up (gear) to a large ledge with a 2 bolt belay (30m, 5.4/5.5). Above this climb easily up until a break presents itself (piton). Follow this easily up and right to a ledge with a short steep wall with a single bolt. From the bolt go straight up past a piton, then trend very slightly left on steep but juggy terrain to reach a belay station on a ledge (25m, 5.5) Easy runout climbing leads to the top past an old belay station to the tree above (5.3, 30 — 40m) Many variants have been done in the upper half of the route.

The Turret 5.7 mixed 125m

Begin by climbing the first pitch of Spiral Staircase and then traverse at the belay bolts (clip them as a runner) and walk right along the ledge for 10m to belay at a second set of bolts (5.5, 40m). Climb up on generally easy, solid, water-worn rock trending up and right passing two bolts which protect short steep walls which are best taken directly, but can be avoided (up to 5.6, 40m). Belay from a tree. Scramble easily 10m to a 2 bolt anchor at the base of a steep grey wall. The final pitch either goes directly above the bolts (harder) or walk right and begin climbing a corner weakness past a fixed piton up toward the only tree on the steep wall. Continue up the corner past the tree and a second piton up to a bolt. (variant: continue right along the corner feature on gear.) At the bolt climb up and left on a steep wall to a ledge and another bolt. (second variant: continue up and left on easier terrain.) The best finish is up and right to another corner feature and a third bolt which protects another apparently bold move on excellent rock to a two bolt belay at the top of the pitch (5.6 / 5.7, 35m) The Turret is the upper route in the following photo.

Hummingbird 5.7 gear 115m

Ian Gynther, Cyril Shokoples, May 27, 1985
An obscure, exploratory route, this climb starts at a loose corner between the 3D Wall and Alaska Bob and climbs a totally runout occasionally loose section to eventually belay on gear on the compact stone right of the second pitch of The Turret. Continue rambling up to the base of the wall right of the Turret and find a good line to the top. Further right of this route but still left of Alaska Bob, another line was done by Tom Saunders and either Paul Trepanier or Robb LaBranche c 1981, 1982, details of which have been lost to the winds. The upper section of rock near the Turret has also been accessed by traversing left about 5m above the second set of belay bolts on Alaska Bob.

Alaska Bob Buys a Jug 5.6r or 5.8/9r mixed 125+m

Bob Watson, Tom Volkers, Cyril Shokoples c mid 1980s
Alaska Bob is actually a somewhat contrived route in that it pieces together parts of previously existing lines, although when done this way it seems very logical. It ends by climbing a very nice slab with a few "skinny" moves. For the most part Alaska Bob follows the very obvious right leaning deep groove in the middle of the main wall. Several starts exist. There are two bolts at the base of a smooth slab 25m below the left edge of the obvious groove. You can get here by scrambling from the left, climbing directly over overhangs (5.9r) or climbing up a weakness to the far right then traversing left 15m to the bolts (best). Once at the bolts, climb directly up the runout slab above past 3 fixed pitons to a 2 bolt belay. (30m, 5.6/7r) This brings you into the main corner feature. Ascend the right wall of the gully (don't get sucked into the loose corner) via an obvious break to a ledge with a two piton belay. (30m, 5.5) From the belay traverse left to eventually regain the gully and scramble / walk easily for a long way to a two bolt belay to the left of the base of a smooth slab (the Slab Emporium). (45m, 5.4) Ascend the slab above to a small corner with a piton and then up to a single bolt and the crux moves. Finish at the 2 bolt belay on the top. (20m, 5.8/9r) If you don't like thin slabs, try any of the other easier lines at the Slab Emporium.

Photo Legend:

1. Alaska Bob
2. Old BLC Route
3. Top of Winter Wanderland
4. Cyril's Slab Emporium

Old BLC route 5.6 or 5.7 mixed 150m

possibly J. Maitland, c1980
This route coincides with Alaska Bob in the middle. It begins right of Alaska Bob and follows a right leaning ramp feature to an old piton / bolt belay. Head up and left until reaching an inside corner which is a bit runout on gear. Head to the same belay stance as Alaska Bob (Variant: Climb up then left to join Alaska Bob at the second set of double bolt anchors. The third pitch is the same as Alaska Bob.) The fourth pitch heads up above the belay into another corner / groove where Alaska Bob heads left. No gear or fixed anchors on the last pitch or more. Take gear and pitons. Other variations exist.

Between Alaska Bob & Winter Wanderland

A number of additional traditional lines have been done between Alaska Bob and Winter Wanderland. In actual fact the original first pitch of Winter Wanderland was in this area. The rock quality in the lower sections tends to be variable and sections can be quite runout. Pitons are advisable if you intend to explore anything other than the described routes in this area. There are plans to retrofit one or two more older routes in this area in 1999.

Photo Legend:

1. Winter Wanderland
2. Tick Paralysis
3. Swordfish Trombone
4. Dihedral
5. Sword of Damocles
6. Redline

Winter Wanderland 5.6 mixed 115m

Bernie MacDonald, Cyril Shokoples, March 1981
This is an interesting route on generally good rock with a nice, almost alpine, feel. It was first done in winter and was led in double leather boots with Vibram® soles. The route as described is a slight variation from the original line, but on better rock. Go up the obvious large dihedral / corner to a fixed piton / bolt belay beneath a roof. (gear, 40m, 5.5) From the belay traverse left on excellent rock and work up and left past four fixed pitons to a reasonable ledge with a 2 bolt belay. (20m, 5.6) From the belay step left and then head straight up past 3 pitons and a bolt to a spacious ledge and 2 bolt belay. (25m, 5.6)

The final pitch climbs the slab above past two bolts then trends right along a break past three more bolts to a two bolt belay at the top. Instead of scrambling up to the top, you can also walk or short rope along the gradually down sloping large ledge heading right. Gain the large vegetated gully and walk down.

[1a - An alternate 5.7 runout start to the 1st pitch on interesting rock begins by traversing left almost immediately at the beginning of the 1st pitch. Keep moving up and left until an inside corner is encountered. Climb directly up over generally good rock to gain the traverse on the 2nd pitch about 10 m left of the 1st belay station. Continue as for pitch two to the belay station. 55m 5.7r.]

[1b - Another older alternate start is to begin over by Alaska Bob and trend up and right to the belay station at the top of pitch 2. A bit more loose and runout than the more normal starts.]

Tick Paralysis 5.8 mixed 100m

Dave Robinson, Cyril Shokoples, April 28, 1998
This is a great one pitch variant to Winter Wanderland on predominantly sound rock. At the end of pitch one of Winter Wanderland, make a few thin moves directly above the belay and crank past the first bolt (first crux) to easier ground. Take care, as the only loose rock is now on either side of you. Climb up and left for 7 m to a second bolt. Climb past the next two bolts (second crux) to gain easier ground slightly right. From the fourth bolt, climb directly up past the final two bolts. The protection for the final crux can be supplemented with a small cam or medium wire (5.8, 40m). (alternate: avoid the last crux by traversing easily left past the 6th bolt.) Belay from Winter Wanderland bolts and do the final pitch to the top.

Swordfish Trombone 5.8 mixed

Dave Robinson, Cyril Shokoples, April 28, 1998
This is a one pitch variant to the Dihedral, primarily on gear. After the first crux of Tick Paralysis, climb up trending right on natural weaknesses on variable but generally reasonable rock. Bring gear unless you like very long runouts (5.8, 40m). Continue up the remainder of the Dihedral route to the top.

The Dihedral 5.6+ mixed 130m

Jerry Broskowski, Sandra & Cyril Shokoples, May 1982
Another nice line. Go up the obvious large dihedral / corner to a fixed piton / bolt belay beneath a roof. (gear, 40m, 5.4/5.5) From the belay traverse right on a nice textured slab past a bolt and a piton then head up. Generally stay in or close to the corner past a few more pieces to belay from a bolt and piton on a small but ample ledge. (20m, 5.6) Continue up the obvious corner above the belay past two fixed pitons to a two bolt belay on a large ledge (20m, 5.6). Climb straight above the belay and slightly left. A fixed piton and bolt protect you before you climb up over a break / small overlap on good handholds. Then continue fairly straight up to another ledge, aiming left of the large tree above. Past the tree, the final bolt is on the low angle featured slab which you cruise straight up to the top where a bolt and piton belay awaits (50m, 5.6).

Sword of Damocles 5.7 fixed pitons and bolts 120m

Vic Marchiel, Cyril Shokoples, June 1982
This is a pleasant one pitch alternate start to the Dihedral route. Begin at the same point as the Dihedral, but after about 5 — 10m start climbing easily up and right to a row of pitons near the edge of the rib that borders the Dihedral on the right. A full rope-length, the middle section of which is nicely sustained, takes you past eight pitons to the belay at the end of pitch two of the Dihedral (50m, 5.7). Take draws and a few Screamers®.

The Gun Barrel 5.6/5.7r gear 110m

Robb LaBranche, Cyril Shokoples, June 1982
Begins at a weakness just right of, and around the corner from, Sword of Damocles. The lower section is a bit loose. The route stays just right of Damocles / Dihedral for it’s entire length and can be runout in places. No fixed gear is in place. Take pitons.

Rifling 5.6/5.7r gear 110m

Paul Trepanier, Cyril Shokoples, August 1982
Begins at a weakness just left of Redline and right of Gun Barrel. The lower section is a bit loose. The route stays just right of Gun Barrel for it’s entire length and can be runout in places. No fixed gear is in place. Take pitons.

Redline 5.6- mixed 105m

Tom Saunders, Cyril Shokoples, May 1981
Right of Sword of Damocles an indistinct corner lies about 5m left of a slightly reddish band of rock which heads diagonally up and right to the top of the cliff. Belay from near a small tree and scramble easily up at first into a corner feature. Climb past four fixed pieces to a ledge with a two bolt belay (30m, 5.6). The second pitch follows a right leaning diagonal past three more pieces. At the last fixed piton climb straight up on firm rock to belay from a large tree (30m, 5.6) The 3rd pitch goes straight up past a single bolt then over an overlap, past a fixed piton slightly left in a groove to a 2 bolt belay (30m, 5.4). The final pitch goes straight up past two more fixed pieces to a 2 bolt belay near the top (15m, 5.4).

Pink Mist 5.6/5.7r gear 50m

Paul Trepanier, Cyril Shokoples, May 1981
A one pitch route 50m right of Redline starting in a nice corner then going onto a beautiful runout slab. No fixed gear is in place. Walk off to the right or climb further (loose rock). Take pitons.

Routes Right Of Redline

Numerous routes have been climbed right of Redline. They are characterized by fairly poor rock on the initial sections, then the rock improves with elevation, particularly after the first ledge or terrace. Pitches are short and separated by large, often rubble strewn, ledges. The upper sections can provide some solid, runout climbing on compact rock which often does not afford much in the way of protection possibilities. This can also be a good place to practice short roping by winding your way through the breaks in the terrain.