Fossil Bed Area

After passing Dusk, continue up the trail for 50m to a fork in the trail. At this point either continue in the main valley to the Main South Wall or veer left and uphill 100m to the Fossil Bed Area, Schoolhouse Rock and Spiderman Slab. Spiderman Slab is an unmistakable immaculate slab bounded by a large corner on the right hand side.

Between where routes like Old Salt exit from the main wall area and the where the Schoolhouse Rock Area begins is a great series of right facing corners interspersed with slabs. The climbing varies from 5.2 to 5.8, but is generally somewhere in between. Many of the light grey colored slabs bear the fossils of creatures who gave their lives for our climbing pleasure. Over twenty straightforward climbs have been done here, but only three named routes have been recorded Willi’s Shut corner, Pthoughmme and Rap Slab Overlap. Interesting exploring, but bring gear and thin pitons.

Schoolhouse Rock Area

Just North of the Fossil Bed Area are four mini areas that make up Schoolhouse Rock. They include the Basic and Intermediate Slabs, Spiderman Slab and the NW Slabs.

Basic Slabs

On the first lower sets of slabs four sets of two bolt anchors have been left for toprope anchors. A popular spot for rock schools with the local guides.

 

Intermediate Slabs

Between the Basics Slabs and Spiderman Slab, this area is slightly higher and sports a number of double bolt sport style anchors on the wall plus four sets of double bolt anchors (as well as additional self-drive inserts) on the flat section above the routes. From the bolts on the flats on top it is 30m or more to the ground.

Most of the inserts now have bolts and hangers attached as of 1998. (If the set you want to use does not have a bolt and hanger please be careful not to ruin the inserts. If the bolt does not go in easily, DON’T force it. DO NOT use cheap bolts like grade 2 or the like. At least two inserts have been ruined in the Hidden Valley area when grade two bolts were snapped off. They are all in the process of being fixed for general use in any case, so if you don’t understand the above discussion, leave the inserts alone and don’t screw anything into them as you may ruin them for all time.)

There are a myriad of routes that have been climbed here and although little evidence of it exists, a lot of short bold leads and solo lines have been done on apparently unprotectable walls and slabs. The area is frequently used for rock schools and rescue practice and is currently only set up for top roping. Some of the named routes are as follows:

• Corner 5.6 - the obvious corner in the upper half of the cliff. Fun.
• Flight of the Eagle 5.9 - begins to the right of the rap hangers (right of the corner), climbs up to a flake (undercling), then to a very steep wall and directly up to the bolts.
• Tranquility Slab 5.10 - left of Flight of the Eagle, it goes directly up to the rap hangers via the thin slab right of the corner.
• Just Try 5.8 the overlaps to the right of Flight of the Eagle.

Spiderman Slab

To reach Spiderman Slab, turn left uphill after passing First Wall and follow the slabs on your right along the plateau for several minutes. Spiderman Slab is a stunning, blank wall with a corner on the right end.

Spiderman 5.12a/b bolts 30m

Dale Diduck and Dave Robinson, 1993
redpoint - Steve Stanko, Aug. 31, 1998
Begin at the right facing layback flake, then begin stemming and smearing on this thin slab / face problem which requires the utmost in balance and a couple of foot stacks on slabby runnels. This route resisted a redpoint for five years. (route 1 in photo)

Alone and Afraid 5.10a/b
3 inserts / not fixed 30m

Cyril Shokoples, c1979/80
Just right of Spiderman. This was the first route climbed here. It was an old top rope problem called the Rap Route and was soloed before it was led! No bolt hangers are on the route at present. It is patiently waiting to be retrofitted, hopefully in Spring 1999. (route 2)

Crank Or Get Spanked 5.11b/c
8 bolts 20m

Sean Elliot, June 1994
Stick clip the first bolt then head up the incredibly steep slab followed by overhanging rock. (route 3 in photo)

Last Shag In Hong Kong 5.10d 5 bolts 20m

Sean Elliot and David Marra, September 1997
Steep line just right of Crank or get Spanked. (route 4 in photo)

Easy Pickin's 5.6 5 bolts 25m

Retro-bolted Dave Devin, Cyril Shokoples, September 13, 1998
Just around the corner (south) from Last Shag in Hong Kong. Start at a group of toppled trees and head up on easy featured slab just left of a broken corner. Grade tentative. (left line in photo)

Blown Away 5.10a 5 bolts 25m

Retro-bolted Dave Devin, Cyril Shokoples, September 13, 1998
Start at a small tree and climb up on steepening slab to the first bolt just right of a broken corner. Make one or two thin moves past the second bolt before gaining easier ground above on excellent water worn rock. Grade tentative. (right line in photo)

NW Slabs

Adjoining the Spiderman Slab to the North, this area saw a lot of activity in the 80s and has had numerous runout routes led on sparse gear or soloed. None of the routes are named or described, but are left as they were found. In 1996, three sets of bolts and hangers were left for top roping or as belay anchors for those who enjoy typical lower angle runout Rockies slabs. Enjoy, but don’t destroy.

Rec Beach Area

A particularly steep and exceedingly blank piece of stone. Walk north past Spiderman Slab heading downhill along the slabs then head for a gully in the distance on your right. Stay left to find Rec Beach. Only three routes exist here. You can continue downhill directly from here to the highway. Second Guess is the route on the right. Tito's is the first route you encounter.

Tito's Goldrush 5.10b/c bolts 27m

Sean Elliot and Sheila Steinke, spring 1999

You used To Be A Rocker 5.10a/b 6 bolts 27m

Shawn van Asten, Sean Elliot, Maureen Allard and one other, c mid - late 1990s

Second Guess 5.11a/b 8 bolts 27m

Shawn van Asten, Sean Elliot, c mid - late 1990s