Hidden Link Overhangs

This is the double overhang seen from the highway. It is referred to as the Two Tiered Wall in the 1994 Robinson guidebook. There are only the two aid routes on it at present and a single old free route not worth mentioning. The overhangs abut up against a steep wall on the right where the rock strata becomes vertical. This is where the routes on the Back Wall begin.

Freedom Roof A1 many bolts 20+m

Yves Carignan, Andre Hutton(?), Tim Eagle, Cyril Shokoples, April 1991
A great overhanging line. It took two hours hanging in etriers, leaning over backwards, to drill on lead.

Hidden Link Roof A2 / 3 gear 20+m

Al Dunham, Orvel Miskiw, September 26, 1981
A good line if you like serious aid, this thin seam is a few metres to the right of Freedom Roof . A few fixed pieces can be seen as well as a piece of old chain. The chain was left as a good luck charm after the first ascent. Pitons required. One spooky 1/4" bolt exists just as you move over the lip of the overhang. The move was passed with a skyhook on the first ascent. Best for the second not to jumar the route as the rope rubs over a very sharp edge and runs the risk of being sawn through.

Back Wall

Mama Baby Love Junky 5.10/11r bolts 75m

Possibly Paul Valulius, c 1995
Start up the first line of bolts just past the double overhangs. Higher up the route follow a series of difficult left leaning slabs. (There may be two routes here now.)

Chevre de Montagne 5.10a 9 bolts 22m

Kevin Christakos & Sean Van Asten, c 1996
About 20m left of Big Corner.

Hail the Goat 5.9r bolts & gear 50m

Dave Robinson, Andrew McLeod summer 1990
Begin up a series of cracks and blocks 5m to the left of the start of Big Corner. 10m up are some loose ledges. From here climb past a fixed pin into the upper corner and past two bolts to the obvious crack. Layback/stem the corner/crack (crux, good pro) to a ledge and a bolt. Climb up to the right through some blocks to a bolt where the angle lessens. Continue straight up to the anchor (2 ropes required for rappel).

Unnamed 5.9/5.10 gear 50m

Harvey Struss, Ken Wallator, 1998
Another gear line with no details. More info when it becomes available.

Big Corner 5.7r gear 50m

Routes Right Of Big Corner

A number of traditional gear routes have been done on the corners and ribs right of the Big Corner. They contain a fair amount of loose stone and require extensive cleaning before they will yield any good climbing worth repeating. There are a few gems hidden amongst the choss here, for those with a good helmet and a bit of time on their hands.

The Dark Side

This refers to the north facing slabs and walls of Hidden Valley. In the right central area is a rotten yellow overhanging wall. Many of the obvious cracks have been climbed over the years but little evidence remains. One multi-pitch bolted route, a mixed free and aid route and a number of gear routes have been done on and around the rounded north facing dome facing the Main South Wall. Several routes have been done (c 1980s) on the obvious right leaning diagonal cracks. One newer gear line has also been done here. With some work and retro-fitting there is potential for a few additional worthwhile lines. Only two descriptions were available at the time this mini-guide was printed, but I would love to get some beta on the others so they can be added.

Gillean MacKay 5.11b bolts and gear to 1.5" 2 pitches

Paul Valulius, Shane Jensen, D. Jensen, 1994
Another rarely climbed route on the Dark Side, this route follows a line of reasonable rock just left of the rotten folded yellow cave area. This routes is mostly bolted but also needs gear to 1.5".

Another Word For Pirate Treasure 5.9 / A2 gear 4 pitches

Rob Lemmon and Brian Finestone, c mid 1990s
One hundred feet left of the broken yellow overhanging wall. There are two obvious parallel vertical cracks, fist sized and shallow. The route ascends the leftmost crack. There are terraced ledge belays with no fixed anchors. Good protection. The first ascent party recommended "large" protection. They suggest #0.5 to #3.0 Camalots (several) as well as nuts and pitons. The descent is to walk off toward the Back Wall. The information for this route is unconfirmed and the grade should be considered tentative.