Rescue Dynamics
Edmonton, AB, Canada T6L 1K5
email:

Greetings,

NOTE: Public courses and guiding were suspended for summer 2022 due to continuing issues related to COVID. We are hoping to return to a more regular schedule in 2024.

This letter will serve to introduce you to the Intermediate Snow & Ice Climbing Course you expressed interest in. We do not have a currently scheduled offering of this course. The previous cost of each course was $400.00 per person including GST (subject to change).

In order for you to be confirmed on the course you must first complete the personal information form, then read, understand and sign the waiver. You will then need to mail or email those completed forms in. You will then be billed for the course fees.

If you have not paid, your spot is NOT yet confirmed. We reserve the right to cancel the course in the event of severe weather or low enrollment. Should this happen, your course fees will be refunded. See our website for complete cancellation policies and procedures.

Should less than three persons sign up for the course, we reserve the right to cancel the course. We also reserve the right to cancel the course in the event of severe weather. Should this happen, your course fees will be refunded.

Completion of a Basic Rock Climbing course and a Basic Snow & Ice Climbing course, plus some climbing experience on real (multi-pitch or alpine) rock, snow and ice are prerequisites for attending this course. You do not have to be an expert, but you should be able to tie in, belay, rappel and climb on rock, snow and ice without direct supervision or extensive assistance. You must have previous experience with self arrest, snow anchors, moving on snow (plunge step, step kicking, glissading), use of crampons and basic crevasse rescue. If in doubt if you qualify, please send a detailed resume of your climbing background and we can advise you.

The course introduces you to skills required to safely undertake more challenging snow, ice and glacier travel with an experienced partner or group. It reviews these skills with an eye toward progressing toward leading your own simple trips. The course very quickly reviews snow techniques such as kicking steps, snow anchors, snow belays, self arrests, knots, roping for glacier travel and other more advanced snow related techniques. We also review ice skills including ice anchors and multi-pitch alpine techniques for more challenging routes. We review crevasse rescue and more advanced techniques necessary for smaller parties to be able to perform self - rescue.

Route finding, pacing, track setting, hazard recognition and avoidance will all be discussed. Some alpine climbing skills such as basic shortroping on snow will be covered as well. The instruction for this part of the course takes place on snowfields and glaciers near Mt. Athabasca. The third day will be an attempt at a summit climb (weather permitting). The instruction for this course takes place on snowfields and glaciers near Mt. Athabasca.

We will provide instruction and all the technical climbing equipment including ice axe, crampons, hardware, ropes, helmets and harnesses. (If you own your own gear, feel free to bring it if you wish.) We DO NOT provide climbing boots, day pack or clothing. We strongly recommend renting plastic mountaineering boots for this course unless you have fairly stiff mountaineering boots with a good welt. Light hiking boots are not acceptable.

Be sure your clothing can handle the mountain environment, including heat, cold, wind, rain or snow, sun and insects. Since we are laying and sliding in the snow, you WILL get wet and cold. We are outside all day every day, and the course will proceed in all but the most severe weather. The enclosed equipment list may help you to prepare. You are responsible for your own meals, accommodation and transportation for the entire course. Prepare a bag lunch and bring water or other drinks (thermos?) for each day of the course, as we do not return to the vehicles for lunch.

The meeting time and place for the course is 8:00 am on the first day of each respective course at the parking lot just outside of the new Columbia Icefields Information Centre atop where the old Columbia Icefields Chalet once stood. It is the only large building in the area. This is located a little over an hour south of Jasper on highway 93. Look for a white cargo van - VE6 MTN.

There are two campgrounds near this area. They fill up quickly and do not accept reservations. The Beauty Creek Hostel is 1/2 hour north along Highway 93. Hostel reservations can be made at (780) 852-3215.

You must have a valid Park Vehicle Group Pass or Personal Pass to attend this course, as we are traveling in National Park areas. Be sure to purchase one when you first enter the Park if you do not already have one.

IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT WAIVERS: Our insurer requires that we have a two part process for using and administering waivers. If you sign up by mail or email you must included a signed and witnessed waiver as part of your application for all courses. You will also be required to sign a second full colour paper copy of the waiver in the presence of one of our staff members. There are no exceptions.

If you have any further questions, please email us or call (780) 461-5040.

Sincerely

Cyril Shokoples IFMGA

Mountain Guide


General Course Overview

Notice: Course content subject to revision or modification without notice
© Copyright 1999 Cyril Shokoples

Intermediate Snow & Ice

DAY 1

DAY 2

DAY 3


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Rescue Dynamics
Edmonton, AB, Canada T6L 1K5
Last updated Monday, June 5, 2023