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Last updated
Important Notices & Equipment Recalls
WARNING! Mountaineering and Rescue are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. The information presented here is intended as an adjunct to, not a replacement for, sound judgment and experience. The accuracy of the information presented cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. In addition, accurate knowledge of the use of various safety devices and systems is requisite to understanding the information presented and in determining it's applicability to your situations. Always use a backup to your systems where a failure could result in death or injury. Nature offers few second chances for poor or inappropriate application of information and techniques. The Law of Gravity has no Court of Appeal. This must not be your only source of information on any given subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors and Rescue Dynamics from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.
What you can expect to see on these pages as they develop:
Here is the list of current postings on this page: From: Linda H Subject: Faulty carabiner Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2001 It seems the problem lies in the spring that closes the gate. Apparently a small piece of metal was broken or bent and caused a malfunction which could have had serious consequences. Other carabiners of the same type were examined and a second carabiner was found with the same flaw. Anyone who owns or uses SALEWA "Attac" carabiners is urged to check all their carabiners immediately. SALEWA is aware of this problem. via lH - ACMG Office From: Darren S Subject: Fwd: Avalanche Transceivers & Cell Phones Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 Just yesterday I was forwarded a posting from a backcountry skiing newsgroup. It detailed an accident at a European ski hill where a skier was buried by an avalanche. He was carrying a digital beacon and his partner, alone, began an immediate search using his beacon, but the victim could not be located. A group of manufacturers and distributors conducted tests afterward and found that analogue and digital beacons are both somewhat affected by mobile phones. They recommend that all mobile phones and other electronic devices be turned off while carrying an avalanche transceiver. Please consider these facts when using avalanche transceivers. Regards, Mike From: Dan D Subject: phones and tranceivers A pisteur died at Pra-Loup on the 25th of December. He was caught and buried in an avalanche while securing the ski area. His colleague tried to find him using an ARVA 9000 avalanche transceiver. The ARVA indicated a direction and distance that were completely incorrect. 50 meters away from where the pisteur was buried. He was later found with a classic analogue ARVA but too late. Inquiries revealed that the searcher's portable phone was turned on. The search facility of ARVA 9000 and also the Ortovox M1 can be affected by mobile phones that are not turned off. After testing this problem has been confirmed by the manufacturers. It would also seem that there is some affect on analogue transceivers. It is recommended that all mobile phones are switched off when a search is made and it is advisable to turn off all mobiles while carrying an avalanche transceiver. CAF Toulouse/Bureaux des Guides Bourg St Maurice via dD Startech Helmet Notice This is a copy of a letter sent out by the MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP August 29, 2000 Dear Member, Our records indicate that you purchased a Camp Startech helmet from us within the last year. Independent testing in Europe has shown that the first model of Startech helmet may exceed 10KN of peak impact force when hit from above. This exceeds the limit set by the CEN (European Committee for Standardization), which must be met to obtain CE Certification. The Startech will provide adequate protection in most situations, but we are contacting you as a precaution. This notice applies only to the original model Startech. The original model can be identified by a foam 'star' velcroed to the foam cap in the crown of the helmet. It also has a 'button-style' release buckle on the chinstrap. Camp has improved the design of the Startech for this year by increasing the thickness of the foam cap in the crown of the helmet. This ensures the helmet will meet the standard. The new model can be identified by a leather 'star' that is glued to the crown and a fastex buckle chinstrap. If you own the old style helmet, and are concerned with the effectiveness of your helmet, please bring it in to the Member Services Department at the MEC store closest to you for replacement with the new model or full refund. Conversely, you can send your helmet back through Mail Order at the following address: Order Sales Department The Order Sales department will refund the cost of returning the helmet via insured parcel post and will pay for sending out a new helmet. Thank you for your attention and safe climbing! Sincerely, Mike Palethorpe
A near accident occurred last weekend due to a faulty carabiner. The Carabiner is made by SALEWA and is called the "Attac".
Subject: avalanche transceivers and cell phones
Later investigation revealed that the lone searcher was carrying a mobile phone and that the phone was turned on. It interfered with the function of the digital beacon he was carrying and gave false readings, directing the searcher to an area approximately fifty metres away from where the victim was buried. The victim's body was later found using an analogue beacon, though the article is not clear as to whether or not the phone was still on and nearby.
Quality Assurance Manager - Mountain Equipment Co-op
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 09:22:49 -0700
05/02/2001
Digital Avalanche Transceivers affected by mobile phones
A manufacturer's investigation has revealed that the search mode of ARVA 9000 and Ortovox M1 avalanche transceivers can be affected by mobile phones.
Mountain Equipment Co-op
130 West Broadway
Vancouver, BC V5Y IP6
Attn W/R
Quality Assurance
130 West Broadway
Vancouver, BC V5Y I P3
1-604-707-4409
Fax: 1-604-731-6483
Ashlar's Ridge Cable Car Removal
This is to notify all climbers in the Jasper area that the cable car across the Fiddle River which provided years of access to climbs on Ashlar's Ridge has been removed. It disappeared in early June or late May of 1998. Parks Canada wardens are uncertain at this time who is responsible for the removal, but suffice it to say that the cable, car and all associated hardware are gone. It is now necessary to wade across the river. This should be allowed for in your planning.
Misty Mountain Threadworks Harnesses
Arête, Finesse, Quantum and Cadillac Big Wall
Misty Mountain Threadworks is recalling about 5,000 climbing harnesses with a front entry sleeve system. If attached incorrectly, the climber's swami belt can be held by only a small piece of elastic behind the sleeve. Climbers who don't realize this mistake create a dangerous situation where the belay/rappel loop tears through the elastic webbing, potentially causein the climbe to flip backwards, possibly causing injury.
Misty Mountain Threadworks is aware of at least three incidents where climbers have ripped the elastic webbing, but there have been no injuries reported.
The front entry sleeve is used in four different harnesses – the Arête, the Finesse, the Quantum and the Cadillac Big Wall. All the harnesses have black nylon webbing with various additional color and design combination features. The tag on the harness reads, "Misty Mountain Threadworks." A label on the harness shows the manufacture date. The recalled harnesses were manufactured between August 1996 and September 1997. The harness shipped in a blue box wiht a photo of Dhaulagiri from Pun Hill, Nepal. These harnesses were sold from August 1996 through March 1998 for about $42 to $80, depending on the model.
Climbers who own a Misty Mountain Threadworks harness with a front entry sleeve should stop using the harness and immediately return it to Misty Mountain Threadworks. The harness will be repaired and returned promptly. Send your harness for repair to Misty Mountain Threadworks, 718 Burma Road, Banner Elk, NC 28604. For more information, call Misty Mountain Threadworks collect at (704)963-6688 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST, Monday through Friday. You may also contact them by email at info@mistymountain.com.
Charlet Moser Quasar Ice Climbing Pick Recall
Batch #1106, Return for Replacement
It has come to our attention that a small batch (139 pieces) of Quasar Waterfall Picks have been identified as having a manufacturing defect. The defect is in the tempering, which causes the picks to bend in use. Picks from the affected batch were distributed world-wide after November 26, 1997 and carry the batch stamp #1106, which can be found close to the top edge of the pick near where it is inserted into the head of the Quasar tool. The affected picks can be found on the Quasar Axe, Quasar Hammer and Quasar Waterfall Pick, sold as a spare part. The affected picks are only from batch #1106 and are only Quasar picks bearing that batch number. No other models of picks are affected. We're sorry for any inconvenience this will cause you. If you have one of these picks, please send it to the address below for an immediate replacement. If you have any questions regarding this notice, please call us at the number listed with this address:
Charlet Moser/Wild Country USA, Inc.
230 East Conway Road
Center Conway, NH 03813
603-356-5590
Grivel Rambo Crampon Recall
Due to the unusually cold conditions encountered while climbing in North America, and the rigid nature of the Grivel Rambo Crampon, some front bails have broken. This safety notice applies to all old style Rambo crampon bails distributed in the USA since September 1993 (US retail price per pair of crampons: $159.50).
Grivel has designed a new Shock Absorbing Bail. The unique spring shape of the new bail greatly increases the shock absorbing capacity. If you currently own old style bails you should send them in for immediate replacement so that failure does not occur while you are climbing, which could cause a serious fall. We ask that you contact the store from which you bought the crampons for immediate bail replacement. If you are unable to contact your store, return the bails directly to Climb High for replacement.
If you have any questions, please call Climb High directly at 800-451-5127. Climb High will gladly pay for any freight charges that you may incur.
We apologize for any inconvenience or difficulty you may experience. This safety notice only applies to bails on the Rambo crampon and no other Grivel crampon.
Important Leeper Hanger Recall
Removal Urged
My hangers (95,000 made between 1962 and 1984), and the bolts they were used with, are not suited for the high forces that can be exerted on top protection by an extreme fall that is locked off or nearly locked off.
More importantly, a number of unpredictable cracked-hanger failures have occurred, leading to broken hangers at quite small forces, often less than body weight. Over time, the steel hanger (or sometimes the bolt) had developed a crack almost all the way across. Such "stress-corrosion cracking" may not be visible and may occur even if the bolt has held no falls.
All of my hangers (polygonally-shaped, with angular corners and round eyes; most manufacturers round corners and use oval or odd-shaped eyes) should now be removed to avoid a possible booby trap. A climber who has not seen this notice may count on a single bolt to hold moderate forces (body weight or more) without backup of any kind, though various brands of hangers are known to have cracked in this way.
I am painfully aware of the scarring removal can cause. I hope that bolts and hangers will be removed rather than just backed up, and that the remaining bolt holes can be enlarged and reused. I urge land managers to allow one-for-one replacements. For existing aid-bolt ladders, I suggest just leaving the holes empty for hooking.
The cleanest bolt removal is to drive a crowbar or heavy claw hammer under the hanger. (CS NOTE: This is likely only possible with Rawl stud type hangers. This may not work with all types. Only knowledgeable climbers should undertake the replacement to ensure a lasting strong new placement.) I hope to receive many of the removed hangers for inspection. I will send a narrow Logan Hook for each ten removed hangers I get. Please note where the hangers have been and roughly when placed, if known.
In the past, high-temper alloy steel hangers from other sources have also experienced cracking, precipitating the one serious accident I know of (three fatalities). Plated steel may not help avoid stress-corrosion cracking (though a crack can be more visible). Stainless steel or low-temper steel probably will help.
Ed Leeper, Boulder, CO (4/1/97)
Metolius 3-D Harness Recall
Problem: We made some harnesses with 3-D leg loop buckles that had sharp edges. New, the harness will pass all of the strength tests. But, over time, this sharp edge may cause the leg loop webbing to cut or fray. So far we have seen six harnesses with fraying.
Which harnesses are affected: All 3-D 550, 650, 750 and Alpine made prior to April, 1996. The month of manufacture corresponds to the number written in the "Inspected" box on the harness danger warning label.
What to do: Send it back to us. We will round out the edges of the leg loop buckles, replace any frayed webbing, and return it to you (one day service). If your harness has already been fixed (this is quite possible), close inspection of the underside of the leg loop buckle will reveal a thin line of bright metal on the inside corners where the anodizing was scraped away when the edge was rounded out. Please accept our most sincere apologies, and please pay attention to this notice. We will send you enough chalk to more than cover your shipping.
Metolius Mountain Products, 63189 Nels Anderson Rd., Bend, OR 97701 541/382-7585
Important Omega Carabiner Recall Information
The following was posted on the Rec.Climbing newsgroup regarding the Omega Pacific Inc. carabiner recall:
"Omega Pacific has discovered that some Omega Pacific Standard Symmetrical Non-Locking "D" carabiners with Lot #'s OG, OH and OI may not have been properly riveted at the hinge end of the gate. These carabiners were manufactured in October and November 1995 prior to Omega Pacific's move to its new facility.
"In the interest of safety, if you purchased ANY Omega Pacific Standard Symmetrical Non-Locking "D" after September 1, 1995, please inspect the rivet at the pivot end of the gate by pushing in the rivet. If there is noticable movement, IMMEDIATELY RETURN the carabiner to Omega Pacific for replacement at the following address:
By US Mail By UPS
Omega Pacific Omega Pacific Inc.
PO Box 1780 Bldg A-1
Airway Heights, WA 11919 W. Sprague Ave.
99001-1780 Airway Heights, WA
99001
"You may also return a "suspect" carabiner for inspection. Upon receipt, Omega Pacific will inspect the carabiner for the above condition. If it exists, we will replace the carabiner. If it does not, we will return your carabiner. It is Omega Pacific's quality control process to individually inspect all our carabiners and we apologize for any inconvenience this situation may cause.
"However, Omega Pacific strongly recommends that you always inspect ALL of your gear for structural and functional defects prior to each use.
"If you have any questions, please contact Omega Pacific at (509) 244-0949."
MSR President and CEO, Dave Bartholomew, issued a notice of recall of their Dromedary Bag water carrier on August 7, 1996. The following is extracted from the full text which can be found at the MSR website.
“MSR has learned that trace amounts of OBPA, a chemical substance used in a laminate layer of the bag's fabric, leach through the NSF-grade laminate layer and into stored water.” “There is no known human health effect associated with trace amounts of OBPA, other than possible short-term mouth and throat irritation.”
“MSR has stopped using OBPA in the Dromedary Bag and is offering to exchange bags with a new model that does not contain the substance.” “New Dromedary Bags are expected to begin shipping in mid-September. If you have further questions, please contact our toll-free Customer Service Line at 800-877-9677.”
Please send feedback to info@msr.e-mail.com
Notice to owners of MSR Stove Fuel Pump Owners - September, 1996 Pumps Only
The following text is extracted from the MSR website. If you think you may have one of these pumps, the full text recall information can be obtained from the MSR site.
"Through internal product testing Mountain Safety Research (MSR) has identified a quality issue regarding our Stove Fuel Pump and is notifying our customers and recalling the pumps as a result. We've learned that there may be a potential problem with some of our fuel pumps produced in September 1996. We have determined that an improper fit between the fuel tube bushing and the pump body may pose a potential safety concern in a small percentage of the pumps made during this time. Affected pumps may have a fuel tube bushing that is too loose that may unintentionally rotate out. Should this occur, there is potential for an accidental fire. Please note: only grey/red pumps date stamped September, 1996 are affected."
Please send feedback to info@msrcorp.com
Recall Notice
All PMI Dynamic 8.8mm Rope Owners
Please Read
We have recently confirmed that PMI Dynamic 8.8mm ropes manufactured between September 1995 and August 1996 may exhibit an undesirable characteristic under certain circumstances.
The characteristic manifests itself as annoying kinking or bunching when the user is on rappel or lowering off. You may have a PMI 8.8mm and never experience this kinking problem since it depends on several circumstances occurring simultaneously. We have determined that the following factors, in conjunction, tend to create this situation:
The problem is most likely to occur when rappelling and does not affect any other performance characteristics of the rope.
This recall only affects our 1996 8.8mm rope colors. Compare the color of your rope with the photos in our '96 catalog or call us to determine if you own one of these ropes. If you still have the hang tag, we can easily determine if the rope you own is included in this recall.
If you suspect you have one of these ropes, please call us immediately about a replacement. Our number is (800) 282-7673. We have corrected the problem and all ropes manufactured since mid-August '96 are rappel friendly. We apologize for any inconvenience or difficulty you may have experienced.
PMI-Petzl Distribution, Inc.
info@pmi-petzl.com
800.282.7673
BLACK PROPHET
BENT SHAFT ICE TOOL
Specific Batch RECALL
Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd. is issuing a RECALL for specific batches of Black Prophet Bent Shaft Ice Tools because of recent shaft failures (this recall does not apply to straight shaft tools). Over the last year we have seen approximately 1% returns from specific suspect batches that have failed due to delamination of the composite material from the aluminum core. We have determined that it is relatively easy to delaminate the composite in the shaft of the suspect tools if you miss-hit it on an ice bulge or rock edge. This failure is generally not catastrophic if you regularly inspect and discontinue using your tool after such a damage causing miss-hit. To tell if your shaft is damaged look for bubble like bumps or ridges or for large dents (cuts in the rubber from crampon deballing are not a concern). With continued use of a damaged shaft there is the possibility that the head can separate from the shaft rendering the tool useless for climbing or self arrest. Therefore, we are requesting that all owners of the specific tools send them in for replacements so this failure does not occur while you are climbing.
The suspect tools were manufactured between December 1994 and December 1995 (tools made in January 1995 are not part of this suspect group). It is very easy to tell if your tool belongs to this group of suspect tools. Look under the pick attachment point on the head of the tool where an engraved number will be present. If this number is either "D94" or falls between 5030 and 5365 then you have one of the suspect tools (tools with no numbers or numbers other than the above are not suspect and are fine to continue using. O94 is a valid number which is not part of the recall). If you have tools with the suspect numbers, we ask that you contact the store where you purchased the tool and obtain a replacement tool. If you are unable to contact your store you should package your tool and send it to us and we will replace it. If you are sending your tool to us directly use the following address:
BP Recall
Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
2084 E 3900 So.
Salt Lake City, Utah 84124.
We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this has caused you,
The Employee Owners Of Black Diamond Equipment, Ltd.
Any questions should be directed to:
Chris Harmston
Quality Assurance Manager
801-273-5508
email: chrish@bdel.com
Posted to Rec.Climbing by Chris Harmston (chrish@bdel.com)
Quality Assurance Manager. Materials Engineer BS, ME.
Black Diamond Equipment Ltd.
2084 East 3900 South, SLC, UT 84124 phone: 801-278-5552
Rescue Dynamics Copyright © 1997, 2001 Cyril Shokoples
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